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The red arrow shows the cement render, vermin proof rafter and roof areas.
The door opened, with lots of steel, so you can't break in.
Finished the door today. Lots of welding all day.
@kt84 I would never a mask personally, as breathing in your own exhaust gases leads to illheath. We are supposed to breathe in 0.023% CO2, with a mask on, your breathing in 7% CO2, a massive increase in CO2 poisoning. One sign is more headaches, drowsiness and slowness of brain function. A simple Internet study reveals masks do not prevent contamination anyway.
@kt84 I would never a mask personally, as breathing in your own exhaust gases leads to illheath. We are supposed to breathe in 0.023% CO2, with a mask on, your breathing in 7% CO2, a massive increase in CO2 poisoning. One sign is more headaches, drowsiness and slowness of brain function. A simple Internet study reveals masks do not prevent contamination anyway.
Finished the cement rat barrier of power room, grinded off excess mortar, ready for painting. Could add steel flashing to roof, but costly, about $150, money I don't have right now. At least the power room is vermin proof, albeit a bit ugly looking.
Yes I just tried this with Lyse, and it is a nice feature. You could remove the conversation, reply feature buttons, too complex, a reply is the beginning of a conversation, a reply to a reply adds to the conservation already. Is there any difference in these buttons from a programmer end? I like to keep things simple.
Just leave the reply feature.
Yes I just tried this with Lyse, and it is a nice feature. You could remove the conversation, reply feature buttons, too complex, a reply is the beginning of a conversation, a reply to a reply adds to the conservation already. Is there any difference in these buttons from a programmer end? I like to keep things simple.\nJust leave the reply feature.
I am glad you do Lyse. Soon I will show you all how to wire up the power required for off grid to run daily a house consuming 5 units of power daily. The system has a total storage of 12 units, leaving some in reserve leaves us with 10 units of power. That means we have only 2 days of power without sunshine. In Australia we can get away with this as Qld is a sunny place, no so if you are in a cloudy, snowy or wet place. You would need more batteries, more panels and maybe consume less power.
I am glad you do Lyse. Soon I will show you all how to wire up the power required for off grid to run daily a house consuming 5 units of power daily. The system has a total storage of 12 units, leaving some in reserve leaves us with 10 units of power. That means we have only 2 days of power without sunshine. In Australia we can get away with this as Qld is a sunny place, no so if you are in a cloudy, snowy or wet place. You would need more batteries, more panels and maybe consume less power.
Finally I have to cement the surrounds to make everything rat and mouse proof. Notice the chicken wire for a background support for the cement render.
View of roof, most sheets are second hand, as the rafters and purlins were also. I started with a 100x50 on its side, than a 75 by 75, than a 100x50, than finally a 100 x 50 on its side with a 100 x 50 upright, the last two beams are bolted together. This is a low fall of 50, 75, 100, and 150mm over a distance of 4m. Or 100mm over 4m.
The roof and ceiling are in place, and the 23 degree angle support for solar panels are bolted to a threaded 12mm rod running down into the building.
Lots of rain over here. Water across roads. Lots of mozzies too. However it's a blessing, the garden trees will grow better on fresh than bore water.
What a long week on my own, working as a gardener. It's a wonderful object lesson. Last day today. Yeah.
Bit wet today, long day too. Having a look at the best MPPT solar controller, the Victron 100 Volt, 30 Amp. This takes in 72 volt panels at 5 amps and converts to 27 volts at 26 amps. They are roughly $200 each and have adjustable voltage float settings for different kinds of batteries. That is important.
Hot day today, exhausting mowing grass with all this wet weather about.
Have lots to learn about cumbungi, you need a crowbar or fork to dig it up, what I obtained was wrong....and roasted it is nice as Aborigines and Pioneers say
Cumbungi looks like this, after roughly prepared for eating, washed etc. And they call this a staple? I don't think so. Would lose weight eating this everyday for a whole week/LOL. I will cook this up and let you know.
Happy 2021 everyone.
To my mum and my wife :)
Happy 2021 everyone.\nTo my mum and my wife :)
My gif image\n\nWhy doesn't the image appear as gif, ie animated?
My gif image
Why doesn't the image appear as gif, ie animated?
Hard work
Does this work here?
I think I am back, my telstra bungle allowed me on, despite no account details, and this is windows 10, microsoft edge. On Lenovo, cost me $200, second hand.
rained yesterday, preventing me from finishing my work
The window end of the power room. Notice the blocks are used to make string line supports.
I mix only 1 cement and 3 sand each time, not much, but on hot days, the cement goes off fast, so add little water half way through and mix again to creamy texture. Cover you barrow with cloth helps keep sun off.
Make your mortar go past each block you lay, so it has time to go off, and hold up the block once it is placed. Than point up your work with your trowel, adding mortar to missing joints and filling in gaps, pressing the point of the trowel so you get strong adhesive forces within the mortar.
Welded window frame, red circle, notice 4 courses left to top of door and window, but 10mm is not enough, making 20 mm short, so I need each mortar layer to be 15mm thick. See red arrows.
Progress, Laid about 32 blocks today, including doing all the tasks myself. Getting blocks, pointing up grooves, raking, and mixing cement. I use a strong brew, 1 cement to 3 sand, as my sand is bush sand, and has some mud in it. Make small patches as it goes off fast on a hot day.
The mortar must be 10mm tick, so I use a thick tile (red arrow) to make level for string line to follow. Laying blocks with a string line is easiest way.
Each block requires 10mm mortar, a thick tile (red arrow) and use string line to lay blocks. Easier this way.
This building is cheaper than poured concrete trenches, plus concrete floor. Carpet will achieve same job as concrete floor. The power room needs to be moisture, insect and vermin proof. Having a dirt floor will help draw moisture out of the air.
Concrete in bond beams OK, some dry batches, but hopefully OK. Also welded frame for door, 1.6 high by 600mm wide, notice the 25mm angle iron hugs the blocks. Door not standard 1.8m and starts 200 off ground, so respectful to enter.
Ready to pour concrete mix. By hand of course, and all batches must go in a quickly as possible.
Red arrow shows some blocks rise up too much, by 2mm, the blocks need to be level within 4mm tolerance, ready for concrete.
Like so
Now ready for reo to go in, wired together with 600 by 600 angle bent Y12 rods. You need only one rod, and fill bond beams with concrete.
Red circle shows the tools you need to lay blocks, two small spirit levels and a block hammer, and a trowel.
Other red arrows show other sites that require more or less mortar as required.
When you lay the mortar I remove one block at a time, not as bricklayers do...on a hot day the mortar goes off fast. The red arrows show the amount of mortar required and the position the block needs to go into.
The arrow shows the gap for the mortar to fill. I use steel straight edge rather than string, a straight edge does 2 jobs at same time. Task is to get blocks laid in mortar to within 4mm level.
Hard to speak of images you can't see right now?
when pouring your concrete strip, the inner edge is moved along, see red arrow.
To begin my course of laying blocks
Yes Rigid makes a 24VDC brushless motor compressor uses 2 to 8 amps, 200W, with 455Watt of cooling, about 1/3 size of Mitsubishi Heavy Avanti of 2000 Watt cooling. Have contacted them for price and products.
Talking to James about Mitsubishi Heavy Air conditioners, the smallest is Avanti with 2.0 kWatt cooling.
Just found one that is 300Watt cooling.
https://www.rigidchill.com/micro-dc-aircon/
Will email and check price, 24V DC and uses a compressor. Wow. Rigid Chill .
Talking to James about Mitsubishi Heavy Air conditioners, the smallest is Avanti with 2.0 kWatt cooling.\nJust found one that is 300Watt cooling. \n\nhttps://www.rigidchill.com/micro-dc-aircon/ \n\nWill email and check price, 24V DC and uses a compressor. Wow. Rigid Chill .
each fruit tree is looked after reliably. Lost plants from cheap water controllers, blocked sprinklers, ie bore water blocks things. What to do? Stay tuned to off-grid-living for ideas.
When I came to this water line, nothing was proper. Taps too low to the ground, so I raised all the taps costing me heaps. People don't like to do things properly and spend to money. Water controllers are a worry. Stupid things. No point buying cheap ones, only the 150 dual ones are best, but battery replace?\nBetter off purchasing 4 of 6 valve water controllers @ 400 each and running 25mm pipe to each fruit tree. They are 240 volt, but run on 24 V, so I can hook them directly to battery without inverter. Long term solution. Might cost me 1000 dollars but 24 water lines
When I came to this water line, nothing was proper. Taps too low to the ground, so I raised all the taps costing me heaps. People don't like to do things properly and spend to money. Water controllers are a worry. Stupid things. No point buying cheap ones, only the 150 dual ones are best, but battery replace?
Better off purchasing 4 of 6 valve water controllers @ 400 each and running 25mm pipe to each fruit tree. They are 240 volt, but run on 24 V, so I can hook them directly to battery without inverter. Long term solution. Might cost me 1000 dollars but 24 water lines
Always use 40mm blue strip poly even if you don't need this. Its rated for 30PSI and does not rot in UV, tough etc. Now do I rip out the entire system and replace the lot with 40mm poly? What to do with poor quality work? Sure it costly slightly more, but lasts forever. Now I have a leak, that's costs me 300 already, plus water mains I didn't have to install. So always use 40mm poly blue strip when doing plumbing up to 200m away, or use the 50mm poly for longer distances. Don't be a cheap skate. Otherwise you get leaks to fix costing you money.
We have a leak in our pipe network. Power bill was 300 more than it should. The pressure pump is on 24x7 and using 300W continuously. So I bought 3 water mains, at cost of 100 dollars, to isolate the problem of leak. The leak is somewhere out back. Silly people place pipes underground. Do NOT do this. Place your water pipes along your fence line, underground crossing drive way, foot paths, yes, but cover with mulch to remove UV attack. This makes servicing for leaks so much easier. And do not go cheap. Silly people here have 3 different sizes, none of them strong enough
I was thinking of using twenty 24 volt water pumps at 60 dollars each, rather than one pump at 300 each, but the price and age of the pumps is same, no better reliability. Inverters are now 98% efficient, so this makes 240 appliances cheap to use rather than 24V DC appliances which are more costly usually.
Weird, the big green tank looks sloping inwards, went out to check. Nope, the tank is exactly vertical to the smaller green tank, so the photograph is wrong.\nWeird, can't explain this angle. There would be 20,000 litres of fresh water in this tank now, ready to connect fresh bath water...Yah...!! Bore water does not lather well and makes hair funny.
Weird, the big green tank looks sloping inwards, went out to check. Nope, the tank is exactly vertical to the smaller green tank, so the photograph is wrong.
Weird, can't explain this angle. There would be 20,000 litres of fresh water in this tank now, ready to connect fresh bath water...Yah...!! Bore water does not lather well and makes hair funny.
Any bowing in formwork sticks, place to outside, and pour concrete next to formwork making it level. Notice yellow spirit level to check top of formwork.\nUse concrete blocks to hold formwork sticks in place.
Any bowing in formwork sticks, place to outside, and pour concrete next to formwork making it level. Notice yellow spirit level to check top of formwork.
Use concrete blocks to hold formwork sticks in place.
Formwork stage, cheap as I can, use the timber edge to get a level top for concrete blocks, to within 5mm and make concrete base 400mm bigger than it needs to be. The blue carpet is for water works. The power room will not have a concrete floor, only a carpet floor, in case water pipes need accessing. Also cheaper. Hard to get concrete in the country. All mixed by hand.
Lovely 30mmm rain as storm late night, our big tank is nearly full, about 2/3
The terminals are very big, 20mm nuts and with huge stainless steel metal bar joins them together.
Our batteries arrived into our shed today yesterday, have to pick up other half of them. Heavy 400Kg , making each battery weigh 35Kg.
Too busy to upload another image?
We stopped for the night at JollySwag. The digital guide leads up into a 8 way intersection, hard to follow digital things, Di can't navigate, nor could I, notice the pattern of how we took up this challenge. Lucky the road wasn't busy for Saturday. So I looked for Kenmore Hills, on digital maps, and thought, can we do this? Stress? Sorry folks, but I must buy a paper map. It's easier to rotate paper.
Lovely well behaved grandkids for Mum on our get together 14 December.
Mum bit slow, arrives today we think?
On our way to Mum in Tenterfield, for early Xmas, and see grandkids.
Staying at Toowoomba for now
On our way to Mum in Tenterfield, for early Xmas, and see grandkids.\nStaying at Toowoomba for now
The link shows the picture OK
That might be a clue James, the link didn't resolve the picture?
Over two days, the upload feature is busy. !(https://twtxt.net/media/KuGwrmFJvpahhaJJsFPXKK) No comments in console.
This is a picture of Beno, out shed that has nice peaches in it. We ate some last weekend, without no fruit fly larvae in them, nice and yummy.
Over two days, the upload feature is busy. !(https://twtxt.net/media/KuGwrmFJvpahhaJJsFPXKK) No comments in console.\nThis is a picture of Beno, out shed that has nice peaches in it. We ate some last weekend, without no fruit fly larvae in them, nice and yummy.
Notice trench made by ramming timber, than form work to make level top, and concrete mixed by hand, into that, than start making knockout bottom layer, with steel (Y12) in them to hold bottom course together.
Another 40 degree weekend, our blocks arrived. The footings get preparations. Decided to make building 4.2m by 2.8 m.
Our blocks arrived today, now the building of the power room can start.
@kt84 nice on. Lovely size too.
@kt84 nice on. Lovely size too.
in fact I have written 1575 webpages, and with thousands of tiny images, the website totals only 38MB in size. In average that's 25,000 bytes per file. I think it takes roughly 8 bytes to make a single letter, so that's 3,000 letters per page, or assuming on average 4 letters per word, 800 words per webpage. Hmm? In today's world, most people do not like to read anymore.... maybe I should make videos?
Problem is clicking on his JS mouse over, yields nothing for me, so the navigation is impossible.
I like to keep things simple. My biggest webpage is just 73Kb in size, and that is because it maps the entire webpage by indexing over 1500 webpages by certain words.
Problem is clicking on his JS mouse over, yields nothing for me, so the navigation is impossible.\n\nI like to keep things simple. My biggest webpage is just 73Kb in size, and that is because it maps the entire webpage by indexing over 1500 webpages by certain words.
Just checking out my nephew's website Eastward Missions, the home page is 250,000 bytes long, while my own website in Spiritual Springs, is just 25,000 bytes long, a mere ten times smaller, which is a lot. Emannuel has lots of JavaScript and CSS style sheets, while mine has nothing but simple HMTL code.
What a process to get a SIM phone number, stupid Telstra process, even though I have an account already, I had to sign as guest, new person, add my drivers licence, get sent and email, than ring #100# to recharge my phone, and all this without instructions, pure guess work.... 90 minutes later even for computer fossil like me...LOL
What a process to get a SIM phone number, stupid Telstra process, even though I have an account already, I had to sign as guest, new person, add my drivers licence, get sent and email, than ring #100# to recharge my phone, and all this without instructions, pure guess work.... 90 minutes later even for computer fossil like me...LOL
I spoke to an electrician today and learned a few things. The inverter has two modes of current, continuous and peak. The peak allows to handle big loads for a few seconds. The circuit breaker is sensitive and must allow peak current flow.\n\nSo for a 24/1200 VA inverter, that means 9.0 amps (don't think they make a 9 amp CB) and for 24/800 VA inverter, that means 6.0 amps (they make these ones). \n\nHowever still not sure, if a load increases to 8 amps for 20 seconds, the CB allows this, but the Invertor won't like this, so burns out?
I spoke to an electrician today and learned a few things. The inverter has two modes of current, continuous and peak. The peak allows to handle big loads for a few seconds. The circuit breaker is sensitive and must allow peak current flow.
So for a 24/1200 VA inverter, that means 9.0 amps (don't think they make a 9 amp CB) and for 24/800 VA inverter, that means 6.0 amps (they make these ones).
However still not sure, if a load increases to 8 amps for 20 seconds, the CB allows this, but the Invertor won't like this, so burns out?
I also plan 30 fuses which are resettable, some rated at 50 amps , some 40 amps and some 20 amps.
There are also 9 hall effect ammeters to gauge the currents coming in, and currents going out at any time, These sit all the time in the circuits, but not part of circuit, they measure flux around the wires, ie hall effect.
The 20 cells hopefully fit across width of room, they have 32mm PVC pipe to draw off H gas using computer fan. Placed high so easy to top up with distilled water, weekly. The power in with 3 solar controllers. The power out with four Inverters, RCD and RCBO rated at 6.0 amps.
A rough idea design of the interior of the power room and layout of components.
@prologic No JS errors, only that warning about cache
@prologic No JS errors, only that warning about cache