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Yes a single screw, if you look closely the noggin sides are bashed around the steel post so cannot rotate. Makes a very strong joint, 1mm steel is bent around the post, and actually I use liquid nails to add more strength to joint, not welding.
@off_grid_living @prologic I had to look up liquid nails and it seems to be some kind of construction adhesive. Yes, I've seen the large contact area of the two steels. Personally, I'd just go overkill and put in a second and third on the extending ears. But I'm not a builder by trade. And this adhesive is probably not coming off in centuries. ;-)
@lyse @prologic I hear you Lyse, but it's such a pain drilling 3mm holes into the 4mm steel posts each time, my arms are exhausted from wrapping the post and pushing hard on the drill tip. And you have to be careful you don't over screw the screw head may shear off, as the thread is much stronger in grip than the screw head. So the screw is extremely tight in that 4mm hole.
@lyse @prologic I hear you Lyse, but it's such a pain drilling 3mm holes into the 4mm steel posts each time, my arms are exhausted from wrapping the post and pushing hard on the drill tip. And you have to be careful you don't over screw the screw head may shear off, as the thread is much stronger in grip than the screw head. So the screw is extremely tight in that 4mm hole.
@off_grid_living I bet this is really hard work, that's for sure! 4mm steel is quite a distance to cover, especially when using a handheld drill. I don't want to miss my drill press. But that won't work on already installed vertical posts. A mag drill comes to mind but I heard they're expensive and also quite heavy, so lifting them in place isn't easy. A much cheaper option would be a ratchet strap to aid in applying pressure. But I didn't try this myself, so can't comment on how well that really works.
@lyse The 18V drill is really very good, it's the cheap drill bits that let you down, you get about 24 drillings before you have to purchase another brand new drill bit. Thanks for your interest in this style of construction, it's not your normal stud building. Posts concreted right into the ground makes a strong building. As does the floor joist span, it's just 1 metre. You can't get hardwood 100x50 F11 anymore, I use pine 70x35 F5 instead.
@lyse The 18V drill is really very good, it's the cheap drill bits that let you down, you get about 24 drillings before you have to purchase another brand new drill bit. Thanks for your interest in this style of construction, it's not your normal stud building. Posts concreted right into the ground makes a strong building. As does the floor joist span, it's just 1 metre. You can't get hardwood 100x50 F11 anymore, I use pine 70x35 F5 instead.
@off_grid_living Over here we're just having brick and concrete buildings. Only the occasional shed or farm equipment garage is made out of timber studs. Nevertheless, getting any building material here is also really hard these days. Just looked up the timber grades you're having in Australia. Not sure what we have here. But I'm pretty sure there are several DINs (German industry standards) covering that. :-D 70x35 for a meter sounds perfectly fine to me.
@off_grid_living Just remembered, that I got a wood technology table book. Turns out there are 20 pages covering plenty standards just for processed woods. More on solid timer.
@lyse Yeah for Australian timber spans, 70x35 F5 or F6, is just 1.2m , so thanks for your interest. Seems like steel construction is the cheapest these days.
@lyse Yeah for Australian timber spans, 70x35 F5 or F6, is just 1.2m , so thanks for your interest. Seems like steel construction is the cheapest these days.